And so on to Nidri.

But first, coming down the hill after you leave Poros, pass the village of Katohori on your left and a further downwards drive brings you to a petrol station. Turn right and follow the signs to Dessimi camping. It is here that is found one of the best beaches on the east coast. A very fine shingle, and the closest to natural sand on this side of the island, Dessimi is a sheltered cove with crystal clear water located on the Meganissi strait. Scuba diving and snorkeling are favourite pastimes here. If you are lucky you may also see dolphins. These beautiful mammals breed off Nidri, between Scorpios and the strait. Around this area are also coves that can only be reached by boat or by quite a long walk.

The heart of the tourist industry on Lefkada, Nidri has a mixed reception. Obviously the harbour cannot be used for swimming. Well not in the summer anyway, but once the boats have departed for their winter dry dock the sea becomes clear again. Deisel pollutants have gone and there is even a Christmas day dip to set the brave and the foolhardy up for their turkey and Christmas pud. Ex pats top the list of volunteers. Not me.

The first part of the very long Nidri beach is to be found at the Northern end of the harbour, by the Notos restaurant. At first there is only a gravel and shingle stretch but once past Nidri water sports it gets better. By the time you reach the Orion (formerly Sun Beach) hotel things are really looking up. You can walk all along the beach as far as Perigiali if there has been little rain. Otherwise, if the water is still flowing from the mountains, you will have to keep returning to the road and finding your way down again. At the Sail Inn you will find a sandy beach with brollies. Remember that the sandy beaches on the east coast have been helped by man. Thank you man.

Down at Perigiali, you have had to take the road, turn into the track that leads to Perigiali beach hotel. Walking through the grounds of the hotel, you will come to a small sandy cove. The water is so warm. Sunbeds are owned by the hotel but the beach is public. There is also a great taverna there run by Elena And Andreas.

Further along, leaving Perigiali on the main coast road, there is Passa Beach. On my first visit to Lefkada, staying in Perigiali,  I was informed by my holiday brochure that the delightful Passa beach was just a short walk from the village. I'm afraid that I didn't agree with the adjective and still don't. A rough stony beach that loses all sun in the afternoon, Passa also has sea urchins on the rocks. So not for me.

Not many tourists except Greeks and Italians find themselves staying at Nikiana and Lygia. There are a couple of Uk package deals but not many. Although off the beaten track as far as northern Europeans go they do attract the type of holidaymaker that wants to find somewhere away from the maddening crowd. If you want a beach next to the main road, in walking distance of your car this is for you. The water here is very warm. even in April, but although the villages themselves are lovely there is nothing here for the beach lover.

And that is the story for the rest of the island. To sum up. The west coast is spectacular but can be dangerous. The east coast is calm and safe and clear. Whatever you have heard about the beaches of Lefkada it cannot match up to the reality. Good swimming.