Thirty eight kilometres south of Lefkada is the old fishing port of Vassiliki. The village itself only has a scrap of discouraging sand but houses the main ferry terminal that serves Ithaca and kefalonia. Vassiliki has always been known as the biggest windsurfing centre in Europe but that is not strictly true.

Pondi, one kilometre south of Vassiliki, was a tiny fishing hamlet that happened to be located in a corner of an island that had an unusual occurrence. All fishermen knew that at two o'clock most afternoons a strong wind came up. This wind is called Eric. Regular as clockwork. Well this wind led to that hamlet becoming a huge draw for wind surfers from all over the world. Vassiliki was accredited with the fame because it was the only place with enough apartments, hotels and tavernas to cater for the influx of visitors. Lately, however, there has been a significant change. Modern hotels etc have been built in Ponti and unfortunately Vasssiliki is suffering economically from it. Ponti beach is what I would, and do, describe as a bit of a gravel pit. Dull, grey shingle and no ambience at all. However people come here for the wind surfing not the beach. On a good day the sight of those surfers is amazing. Although global warming seems to have changed the wind pattern a little it is still a sight to behold.

Just north of Vassiliki is a beach called Agios Fili. The only way to reach it is by walking for an hour or, in the summer, taking a water taxi from Vassiliki. This is a glorious scenic place. If you took a picture of it you would see white sand and clear blue sea. But there is no white sand on Lefkada. Like Myrtos on Kefalonia that white beach is pebble. With a background of trees surrounding the cove all you can see is green, white and blue. You would think you were in Hawaii. The water seems calm but just wait until a ship passes. Big waves. Lost mobile. Lost camera. Oh well. Shouldn't have left my jacket on that rock.

Now heading north and we come to the town of Marandahori. Previously the main town of the south east it is now primarily an agricultural village. If you don't see donkeys here you won't see them anywhere. A long road leads you to the forgettable beach of Ammousi. It is a long drive down and I wonder whether the pebble beach at the end is really worth the effort.

Not really a beach, and you shouldn't really swim there, but I can't go past Sivota without mentioning it. A fishing port and safe harbour that has become extremely popular with the more affluent yachties it is a place that you could take time out for. Scenic and with some good tavernas it is well worth visiting. If you fancy a swim you can walk to the left of the harbour until you reach an area that hasn't been polluted by diesel from the boats.

Poros beach. Or Makris Gialos. Or Rouda Bay. I have a friend who spends most of her holiday time there. Travelling on her scooter in the early morning and returning later to Nidri with the energy to hit the bars. It must do something for her.

Poros is the village above Rouda Bay but the beach has taken its colloquial name from that village. Down a long winding road you come upon a beach that has some of the clearest water in Europe. A snorkelers delight. The reason for that is the mountain springs that travel down to the beach all winter, even until May. The problem with that is that the sea is cold. Of course in the hottest months it is just refreshing. A pebbly beach, typical of the east coast, Makros Gialos is invaded by camper vans every August. It is a delightful place but it is a heck of a road to take a car down, never mind a camper van. It now boasts a few tavernas but so far no umbrellas.