The next three beaches are much further down the coast, entailing a long drive south until you reach the right turn signposted to Porto Katsiki. This turn is the beginning of the long road down to the southwest of the island, culminating in Sappho's leap, or more formally Cape Doukato.

The first beach is Gialos. Just past the village of Dragano take a right hand turn signposted to the beach.. This is an old olive track that has been recently improved, so enabling Gialos to be reached more easily than it used to be. The old way was to go all the way to Athani and then double back. It is not an easy road, especially the last kilometre when great care needs to be taken. At that point the road is steep, narrow and tortuous and some drivers seem to be incapable of driving anywhere but in the middle. They then blast their horns at you for even daring to be on their road at all. Look out for the hand painted signs that lead the way otherwise you may drive around the olive groves all day.

Gialos is a long, sandy beach that is difficult to describe. First of all the loose sand isn't golden or even brown. It is a dirty gray colour. Gialos is dwarfed by the surrounding rocky hills that you have just descended. These rocks are very damaged. Millenia of earthquakes have made them unstable. This causes the rock to break off, especially in the winter storms, and the residue mixes with the sand to alter its colour. Having said that the place has a natural appeal to any one who likes...... natural. I don't know what it is about Gialos. I remember my late father- in- law sitting at a beach bar, drinking his Amstel, and saying "of all the places in all the world". I know what he means and so do many of my companions on our Secret Lefkas trip.

There is a total of four beach bars in the height of the summer. It starts with one, then two, then three, then four. By October it is back to one. The same guy who opened in May. Guess which one I use. There are a few umbrellas for hire but best take your own, otherwise you won't be able to get away from the centre and the crowds. Not that there are many crowds except of course for August when nowhere is quiet. One word of warning. don't take the car onto the beach. The sand is so soft you would never get it off. I have watched as even four wheel drives have come to grief. As with all the beaches in the south west there are no toilets. No water supply means no conveniences. You're in the wilds now.

The last village on the island is Athani. This is as far as the school bus goes. Not that there are many children living here in the winter. It is too remote. Athani itself does not have a beach. It is too far from the coast. But it does have glorious sunsets. Athani has prospered due to its proximity to Egremni and Porto Katsiki beaches. It has some apartments and a few tavernas. For some reason the fish is good although they have never had a fishing port. The fish comes from Vassiliki. I have been asked to do an evening trip to Athani. Beautiful food, local wine and watching the sun turn the sea red. If there is enough interest I may do it. My daughter and son-in-law cycled around the island once (yes crazy I know) but they were determined to see the sunset and stayed overnight in Athani. I suppose the easy way is to be driven there. No drink and drive problems returning over the mountains.

Egremni beach is a dream. If you can get to it, if you have the stamina, then it is paradise. The pay- for- it car park at the top of the cliff is not a problem. The 395 steps down to the beach are. Or rather the same steps coming back up in the heat are! Golden sands, blue sea, unspoilt (no wonder). My trip of Secret Lefkas just shows you where to take the best pictures. Forget the steps unless you plan to spend all day on the beach.

Many visitors to Lefkada have heard about Porto Katsiki. The beach is shown on numerous postcards and it is, undoubtedly, lovely. The local mayor has worked hard to transform the place. At the top of the cliff are shaded picnic areas and kantinas. Old, unhygienic kantinas have been bulldozed away. There are chemical toilets available but better not. Unless you have a strong stomach. A short walk out to a peninsular, across a narrow bridge, is a good photo opportunity. You can see the beach from here if the steps are too much.

A hundred steps down brings you to the beach. It is probably one of the safest of the south west beaches to swim but again it can be dangerous if there is a high wind. This beach used to be mainly sandy but changes in currents, a large earthquake out to sea and high winds have caused thousands of pebbles to cover up what was golden sand. This bank of pebbles has also made it a steep entry into the water. The strange thing is though that once in the sea the bottom is mostly sandy. Furthest away from the steps, at the other end of the beach, the sand is gradually becoming uncovered. This beach more than any other seems to change from year to year. Mother Nature is incredible.

A couple of loud music beach bars are available in the high season. In July and August the car park is six euros a visit. That is for an hour or a day. I never go there in August because just about everyone else does, which means there is nowhere to park, the picnic tables are always full and there is very little space on the beach to even lay your towel.