By hiring a car or bike, or using taxis, there are many tavernas that are out of the town and have a more local feel.

Paleokatouna. Just a couple of kilometres outside Nidri, up a steep hill, there is DIMITRI'S taverna. This is actually walkable, at least it is coming back downhill. The views down over Nidri are superb, and although it is only typically Greek fare the prices are moderate. Dimitri keeps prices low by only employing family so during busy times you may have to wait to order. Make sure you have at least a drink (you may even have to serve your own from the barrel) and enjoy the view.

Haradiakita. Four Kilometres from Nidri, south towards Vliho and turn right up the hill. There are two tavernas. One is Jimmy's, run by a Greek Australian, and the second, further up in the square, is a traditional Greek taverna run by the local Butcher.

Fterno. Around fourteen kilometres south of Nidri in a beautiful village setting there is PHILLIPAS taverna. Again run by the local butcher. Walk around the village first and soak up the atmosphere.

 

Above the small harbour of Sivota there is a taverna with beautiful sea views, and down in the harbour itself there are a handful of tavernas and bars including a very good fish restaurant.

 Vassiliki. Eighteen kilometers south of Nidri is the lovely harbour village of Vassiliki. Reached by bus during the daytime it was once only a small fishing village. Make sure that you have an up to date bus timetable as buses finish early on Lefkas and also take an afternoon siesta. The fishing boats still work from there although not in the same numbers as yesteryear. Try the PENGUIN restaurant run by Mary and Gary.

Karia. In the centre of the island, Karia is famous for its lace and embroidery. BRENDA'S is the place to go to for drinks and to eat one of her famous toasties. Very reasonable prices and you can actually get a decent cup of tea. After all Brenda is a Lancashire lass although she's lived on the island for 15 years. Set in the central square of the village, protected from the sun by large plane trees, you can watch the world go by and feel a real part of Greece.

 Vafkeri. Nine kilometres above Nidri up a very scenic road. The  KATOGHI  is a new restaurant run by Peter and Alison, an English couple who have made the village their home. The local Greeks have taken them to their hearts. Open from morning to night, except Mondays, you can have morning coffe. lunch or a full meal. The views over the valleys and mountains are superb.

Vliho. A small fishing village four kilometres south of Nidri, Vliho is now known more for its sail boats than its fishing boats. There are a couple of tavernas on the sea road and if you want to talk to some ex pats about living on the island head for the YACHT CLUB. Owned by Vicky and Rory, an Anglo-Irish couple, the yacht club serves a range of food including very good sandwiches and roast beef and yorkshire pud on a Sunday.

There are other small tavernas tucked away in the most remote villages. The prices are usually a lot lower than in the resorts although you may have to wait while the owner gets eggs from his hens or salad from the garden. YUM.